Food review: Colin Nash Restaurant, The Retreat, Hinton

‘LOCALLY sourced” is a phrase often bandied about in the culinary world, but at Colin Nash Restaurant at The Retreat, it’s more than just a buzzword. It’s a philosophy woven into the very fabric of the dining experience.

Browsing the menu, guests are presented with an array of dishes that connect to the stunning New Forest estate that surrounds the restaurant. From Mudeford crab to East Close venison pie and line caught sea bass, each dish has been created to showcase the very best local ingredients and seasonal produce.

This celebration of local fare extends to the back of the menu, where a roll call of local suppliers proudly demonstrates the restaurant’s dedication to community and quality. Clearly, Colin Nash, formerly head chef at The Three Tuns in Bransgore, has cultivated strong relationships with the region’s finest producers, and the rewards are evident in the stunning dishes which he and his team produce.

Located at The Retreat holistic and wellness centre, which was formerly the East Close Hotel, the Colin Nash Restaurant opens throughout the day, offering breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, and dinner.

Spacious and inviting, the restaurant’s interior celebrates the building’s historic charm, with a stunning open fire centrepiece and high ceilings featuring exposed beams. Meanwhile, beautiful wall art, foliage displays and large potted plants adorn the dining area.

We are greeted warmly on our arrival by Stephen – a wonderful host who explains a little about the locally inspired menu and the wider estate with infectious enthusiasm. A hospitality stalwart, Stephen’s friendly nature definitely starts our evening off well as we are presented with pre-dinner palate cleansers of puree cod roe on a rocket base.

Turning to the appetisers, I’m fascinated by, but not quite brave enough to try, the Dorset snails in garlic and herb butter with sourdough croutons. Instead I opt for dogfish scampi served with chunky tartar sauce. My husband chooses Mudeford cuttlefish, with both menu items revealing exact details of the boat which supplied them.

A twist on classic scampi – the bite sized dogfish morsels were encased in a crispy breaded batter which gave way to the flavoursome fish, whilst the tangy tartar sauce added a burst of acidity and freshness.

My husband praised the light crispy Panash beer batter around his tender cuttlefish chunks, which were perfectly cooked to retain a satisfying bite. The garlicky mayonnaise adding a delightful creamy accompaniment.

We also chose a bottle of Vina Edmara Pinot Noir to accompany our meal from the extensive wine list, which included an impressive range of wines available to purchase by the glass.

When it came to selecting a main course, we were spoilt for choice with a well-balanced range of dishes on the menu and specials list, many of which featured locally sourced meat and fish. Specials of the day included pheasant breast a l’orange with champ mash and spiced pumpkin, and East Close venison pie with suet crust, creamed potato and sesame red slaw.

However, daydreaming of warmer days, I chose the line caught sea bass served with a fricassee of cuttlefish, olives, roasted new potatoes and tomato.

The chewy texture pf the cuttlefish provided great contrast with the delicate, flaky sea bass, and the dish was very much a celebration of rich Mediterranean flavours, with olives and sun dried tomatoes complimented by the earthy roasted new potatoes and cavolo nero.

My husband opted for 10-hour pork belly with dauphinoise potato and Dijonnaise and apple sauce. The crisp crackling set off the melt in the mouth pork belly perfectly, and the luxurious dauphinoise potatoes were perfectly cooked to retain a satisfying bite.

Portion sizes were just perfect and after finishing off two delicious courses we turned to the dessert menu, which featured an intriguing array of slightly quirky dishes such as glazed kumquat meringue alongside traditional favourites like apple crumble.

My choice, ‘Egg and Soldiers’, featuring a tropical panna cotta, was a delightful fusion of creamy richness and vibrant, fruity notes, combined with crunchy brioche toast soldiers. Not too sweet, the dish was visually beautiful, creating a memorable ending to a wonderful meal.

A decadent warm butterscotch pudding with vanilla ice cream was my husband’s dessert of choice, which he described as rich and sweet with warm caramel notes created by the blend of butter and brown sugar.

Colin Nash Restaurant at The Retreat combines a welcoming atmosphere, friendly and attentive staff, and delicious and imaginative food featuring lots of local ingredients, presented with incredible attention to detail. Local ingredients took centre stage, with classic British dishes served up with an imaginative twist.

With a programme of popular tribute nights accompanied by dining, and monthly international cuisine evenings, there is also plenty going on to set it apart from other New Forest venues.

• For a chance to win a three-course meal for two with a glass of wine at Colin Nash Restaurant, pick up the latest A&T from the newsstand.