Food review: The Three Tuns, Bransgore – a lazy Sunday pub roast to chase away the winter blues

THERE are some pubs that really come into their own on chilly winter days, and The Three Tuns in Bransgore is one of them.

The 17th century inn, with its rural charm and comforting food, offers a welcome escape from the biting cold and gloomy skies.

I enjoyed a long, lazy Sunday lunch there with my husband and two boys, and from the moment I stepped inside it was clear this was a much-loved spot.

It heaved with diners indulging in a Sunday roast, dog walkers enjoying a fireside drink and friends catching up at the bar, and the warm welcome from staff and joyful atmosphere of the place made me glad I’d walked through the doors.

Traditional in every way with its thatched roof, exposed beams and log fires, The Three Tuns has retained much of its original charm and is the perfect winter haven to chase away the January blues.

The menu is full of hearty, wholesome dishes the whole family can enjoy, and an impressive specials menu featured meals like loin of venison, mushroom and tarragon potato roulade and chicken ballotine.

Starters for the table included cheese souffles and freshly baked bread with an olive oil and balsamic dip.

The souffles were a masterpiece – puffed to perfection with a slight wobble and a golden caramelised topping, the texture was light as air, and the delicately savoury taste was tangy and bold.

And the bread, still warm and full of wonderful ‘fresh-baked’ flavour, had a rustic, crackly crust and pillowy interior – we couldn’t get enough of it.

Mains were pasta in a cheese-and-tomato sauce for my youngest, a half-portion roast chicken for the other, venison for my husband and lamb rump, fondant potato, purple sprouted broccoli and a bacon-wrapped green bean bundle with red wine jus for me.

The lamb was tender and succulent, with a great depth of flavour and subtle sweetness, and it paired well with the rich, tangy red wine jus, bringing fruity acidity to the dish. The fondant potatoes were golden and buttery and had a creaminess that can’t be achieved with roast potatoes.

The broccoli brought colour and freshness, while the parcel of beans, elegantly presented, was testament to the popular belief that most food tastes better with the addition of bacon.

My son’s ‘child-sized’ roast was enormous, which warranted me sampling the best bits minus the Yorkshire pudding which he’d devoured. Moist, well-seasoned chicken, seriously crispy, golden-skinned potatoes and the most flavourful gravy I’ve had in a long time combined to make a seriously good Sunday lunch. The vegetables – baby carrots, parsnips, cauliflower, green beans and mange tout – were served on the side.

This was the ultimate roast dinner – the type that leaves you feeling satisfied all day and saves you having to lift a finger in the kitchen on a Sunday evening.

Dessert was tiramisu for three of our party, along with a chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream, and a brandy snap for the fourth.

This Italian classic is my all-time favourite pudding; it’s fair to say I’ve had a few – this one was a triumph.

It had the perfect ratio of fluffy sponge and mousse-like cream, with subtle coffee notes balancing out the sweetness and a bold, boozy taste.

This dish had a winning lightness to it and an addictive combination of flavours – but just to make it that bit more indulgent the cocoa dusting had been swapped out for a generous layer of dark chocolate shavings, which I loved.

My son adored his chocolate pudding, which released its silky river of molten chocolate when he dived in with his spoon. Comforting, rich and irresistible, this is certainly a crowd-pleaser.

For many families, eating out can be an expense that’s hard to justify, but if you want really good value, delicious food in a snug, characterful pub with outstanding service and good vibes, look no further than The Three Tuns.

It’s rare for us to sit around a table together for any great length of time, but we spent around three hours sharing great food and happily soaking up the buzzy atmosphere of the place.

For more information about The Three Tuns or to book a table, visit www.threetunsinn.com or call 01425 672232.

• To be in with the chance of winning a two-course Sunday lunch for two, pick up this week’s Advertiser & Times.