Spot in the Woods: relaunched cafe shows off its hotel heritage

I SHOULD declare an interest in Spot in the Woods. I washed pots and waited tables there as a teenager when it was the two-star Busketts Lawn Hotel so I’ve always kept an eye on its fortunes in Netley Marsh on the edge of the New Forest.

It was bought about a decade ago by world-renowned sommelier Gerrard Basset and his wife Nina who transformed it from offering hospitality seemingly marooned in the 1970s to the modern, wine-themed Hotel TerraVina.

Following Gerard’s treatment for cancer, however, the Woodlands Road premises took a new direction and in March the couple relaunched as Spot in the Woods, this time offering B&B accommodation and an all-week daytime café.

I was curious to find out how a place with the formal appearance of hotel – and for which it had been known for decades – would pull off such a radical reincarnation.

To be honest, I doubted that a slightly out-of-the-way destination lacking the passing trade of the New Forest’s tourist honeypots could draw in the punters – but was quickly corrected by the crowded car park as I arrived for Friday lunch with a guest.

In essence, Spot in the Woods seems to have succeeded in combining the best of both worlds: the well-mannered breeding of a hotel with the friendly welcome of a café.

Visitors are greeted on arrival, for example, and guided to a cheerful eating area with a coffee bar and open kitchen. Full-height windows look out across a spacious terrace to a large, grassy garden dotted with tables – a sheltered sun-trap perfect for alfresco lunch.

The only problem with its popularity can be finding a table outside, but one opens up after a few minutes and we pore over the big, two-sided menu including breakfast, sandwiches, sharing plates, afternoon tea, and handful of main meals, complete with gluten-free and vegetarian options.

The quality, good-value choice manages not to overwhelm while still presenting options for all sorts of visitors. I spot a few tables of ladies-who-lunch, families with children enjoying the outdoor space, a pair of cyclists stopping for a break, and a relaxed pensioner couple.

A specials board offers crayfish sandwich (£6.95), goat’s cheese, spinach and walnut pappardelle pasta (£9.95) and, to finish, a popular banana split (£5.50) which soon sells out.

Outdoor diners have to order at the coffee bar, and I snap up the last of the Devon crab – a shell-full of sweet, moist meat with fries and moreish granary bread (£13.95). My diet Coke is £2.

My friend plumps for the platter of local meats with crusty bread (£10) which, head chef and 2016 MasterChef: the Professionals finalist Gavin Barnes tells us, is typical of their policy of locally-sourced food.

The pickle comes from the Real Jam and Chutney Co just down the road, and the pork pie and sausage roll (both well-seasoned and tasty) from Tatchbury Manor Farm in Winsor, and Blackwater Pork in Eling. A pint of Flack Manor bitter-shandy is £5.50.

Fans of traditional puddings might be disappointed, but there’s still plenty of choice for those with a sweet tooth: from café favourites of tea cakes and home-made rocky road to fruit crumble and ice creams.

I greedily test out the knickerbocker glory (£4.50) which has a surprisingly refreshing balance of sweet ice cream and acidic berries.

My friend’s pair of scones (£2.75) are fluffy, generously sized and come with plenty of Devon clotted cream and local jam.

Spot in the Woods’ hotel pedigree means quick and attentive service but we were never rushed – even after staying to gossip in the sun long after finishing our Americano coffees (£2.40).

On the way out we pause to peruse local art and craft for sale, plus an informal delicatessen showing off chilled meats, olives and wine. For those wanting to walk off their meal, wellington boots line up under the stairs ready to be borrowed.

Food reviews are supposed to end with a pithy summary. What says it best about Spot in the Woods is that two days later I was back for breakfast.