Food review & competition: Master Builder’s House, Buckler's Hard, Beaulieu

WITH its stunning riverside views, stylish decor, impeccable cuisine, and unforgettable customer service, the Master Builder’s House hotel in Beaulieu provides a dining experience that is a cut above.

The view from the hotel of Beaulieu River in all of its sunset glory, which I took in with a refreshing gin-and-tonic in hand, made quite an impression, and I was struck by the peacefulness of the setting.

After a leisurely drink in the Yachtsman Bar beside one of the hotel’s many open fires, my dining companion and I were shown to a table by the window.

We ordered a bottle of Framingham ‘Classic’ Riesling, made from some of the oldest Riesling vines in New Zealand. This crisp Sauvignon had flavours of citrus and honey, with slight floral notes and a long finish.

My first course was Rosary goat’s cheese with a basil and pine nut dressing, shaved fennel, toasted pumpkin seeds and Forest-produced Noble Bee honey. The creaminess and delicate tang of the warm cheese paired so well with the sweetness of the honey and pine nuts – a triumphant start to the meal.

My sister opted for tiger prawn pil pil: a Spanish dish made with garlic and chilli infused in hot olive oil which, it turns out, is pretty irresistible as a spicy bread-dipping oil.

A main of pan-fried chalk stream trout with celeriac, sauteed potato and buttered greens in a parsley and white wine sauce was the stand-out dish for me.

The fish was cooked to perfection by head chef Ben Cartwright, with its delicate, tender texture offset by the crispy skin; and the sweet and nutty celeriac and salty, buttery sauce providing the perfect accompaniment.

The dish was beautiful in its simplicity and mouth-wateringly good – the kind of food that leaves a lasting impression.

My partner chose the Brixham monkfish skewer: tikka-spiced pieces of meaty fish served with a cucumber, lime and mint yogurt, and tenderstem brocolli.

I was told by our lovely waitress Elise Cottrell that this was the restaurant’s most popular dish – and having tasted, it was easy to understand why.

The sweet and clean flavour of the fish was not overwhelmed by the spicy seasoning, and the zesty, creamy yoghurt was the prefect cooling accompaniment.

The conclusion to the meal were some utterly delightful desserts: a dark chocolate and amaretto mousse with coffee ice cream, and lemon posset with raspberries, honeycomb and ginger biscuit.

As a big fan of chocolate, I expected to prefer the mousse, but the lemon posset with its intense combination of rich, sweet citrus with creamy and biscuity flavours was by far the best I’ve tasted.

The chocolate amaretto mousse, even pitted against the posset, was as decadent as you would expect any dessert to be.

Loaded with almond flavour and so fluffy it melted in the mouth, this sweet was a real treat.

Our food was totally satisfying throughout, with wonderful layers of texture and taste. The restaurant had a laid-back, homely vibe – owing to the friendly service and canine companions lying at the feet of our fellow diners – while still delivering on high-quality food.

Of course, the location of Master Builder’s House in a tranquil and unspoilt haven has a lot to offer those wanting to escape the hustle and bustle but still have great experiences.

The charming restaurant manager Danny Haddad, whose passion for food, drink and the local area shone through immediately, was happy to give us a rundown of the area’s stunning attractions

Just next door is the Buckler’s Hard Museum, where visitors can learn of the area’s fascinating history as a naval shipbuilding centre, while seasonal river cruises take in the Beaulieu River Nature Reserve.

A delightful riverside walk takes visitors from Buckler’s Hard to Beaulieu, with its world-famous National Motor Museum and unspoilt 16th century high street.

For information about Master Builder’s House hotel or to book a table at its Riverview restaurant, visit www.hillbrooke hotels.co.uk/the-master-builders

• For the chance to win a meal for two at the hotel, pick up a copy of the latest A&T and turn to page 26.